Tailoring has become an essential part of the professional wardrobe... and a fashion statement in its own right. Contrary to popular belief, sartorial details allow you to personalize your jacket and assert your style.
In this article, discover 5 key criteria for making the right choice: fabric, buttoning, pockets, collar, lining.
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1) The fabric
The fabric determines the fit, quality and comfort of your jacket. For a beautiful suit jacket, avoid synthetic materials that retain moisture and lack thermoregulation.
Wool cloth is a safe bet: elegant, breathable and thermoregulating (warm in winter, cool in summer), it's perfect for all-season wear.Elastane provides suppleness and ease for intense days.
At 17:10, we favor Italian wool sheets, natural (often certified) and recycled materials, for a durable, comfortable jacket.
2) Buttoning
The buttonhole stitch has a direct influence on the silhouette: the higher the stitch, the shorter the jacket (and vice versa). It should be located on the waistline (depending on the fit) and keep a harmonious distance from the bottom of the jacket.
- Lengthen the silhouette / enhance the lower body: opt for slim-fitting jackets with buttoned waists, such as the Paris or Olbia jackets.
- Balancing the silhouette / highlighting the shoulders: choose slightly longer jackets with buttoning slightly below the waist, like the Boston or London jackets.
Ultimately, it's the buttoning stitch that structures the silhouette, dividing the top/bottom volumes. The type of button (mother-of-pearl, covered, etc.) also adds a more or less formal touch.
3) Pockets
Pockets are a functional detail... and a real style asset. The most common model is the piped pocket (two straight pockets), elegant and structuring. You'll find it on our Paris and Olbia jackets.
The side pockets, sewn into the seam and "invisible", give a more casual look - especially on the Boston. The visible patch pocket is a sign of assertive style - for example, on the Moscow.
Most practical of all: the inside pocket - found on all our 17:10 jackets - for cards, pens, business cards... (avoid bulky objects that would break the fit).
4) Collar and lapels
The size and shape of the lapels influence the look. The higher the buttoning, the more visually reduced the lapels (and more buttons = thinner lapels).
Wide lapels enhance the build and shoulders; narrow lapels elongate the silhouette. Examples: wider lapels on Moscow, Boston, Olbia; thin lapels (or no collar) on Sydney, London, Paris.
