History of tailoring

Fashion changes with the passing years and seasons. Trends come and go, but classics remain. Among these 'classics', tailoring is a must.

The suit is not only a major piece of wardrobe, but also a pivotal garment in any couture collection. More than just an article of clothing, the history of the suit shows that there's a lot more behind these pieces of fabric than just a garment.

The suit is a garment with a message, a symbol of feminine freedom, and that's what we're passionate about. This piece was borrowed from the men's wardrobe at a time when women were freeing themselves from a certain social status - that's how important the suit is in fashion!

Let's take a look at its evolution over the centuries to become the tailor we know today.

17th century

In the XVII^e century, the amazon habit was democratized for horseback riding. Women wore the hongrelinea stapled-front, slim-fitting jacket worn with a skirt of the same fabric.

18th century

Shortly before the Revolution, elitist circles took back the jacket and skirt from the working classes. Their simplicity and comfort perfectly matched the expectations of the time. As early as 1789, this ensemble borrowed certain codes from the men's wardrobe, such as buttons, pockets, collars and even pants, perfectly in tune with the current quest for equality between the sexes. But it wasn't until 1880 that the "suit-coat" established itself in fashion as an integral part of women's wardrobes.

19th century

From the mid^e century, feminism, the growing urbanization of cities and the practice of sports led women's fashion to evolve towards a more "practical" side, and the suit spread throughout Europe and then the world. The "suit" became a garment for "modern" women, with the use of woollen cloth usually used for men's suits.

The Englishman John Redfern is credited with creating the "ladies' tailor" profession and inventing the tailor around 1870. Both Redfern and Creed made the tailor a key element of their designs.

Alexandra Bosc, heritage curator at the Palais Galliera, explains that "by the end of the 1880s, it was widely believed that the ideal wardrobe for an elegant woman should include daytime suits by Redfern and eveningwear by Worth.

20th century

The sport suit is a source of inspiration for couture and city ensembles. The suit benefits from the great changes of the 20th century. In the 20s, the suit was the garment of the century. After the war, it became a symbol of modernity and tolerance. Previously little considered by the Couture world, around 1900 the suit became the leitmotif of young designers such as Paquin and Poiret, who were seeking new contours for couture.

From then on, Chanel, Patou and Lanvin made the suit the symbol of elegance. The skirt and soft jacket became the benchmarks for a new generation. From then on, the suit was considered a classic. It made its mark in the couture world, which had previously rejected it. From 1930 to 1950, at Lelong and Dior, the suit was the pinnacle of Parisian taste and style. 

Then, depending on the vagaries of history, it will sometimes be the positive or negative symbol of femininity, elegance and sobriety.

Haute-Couture works the suit with simplicity, drawing inspiration from men's tailoring; each couturier seeks to leave his or her mark on the history of the suit through details. Chanel, Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier all bring something new to each collection, whether it's a skirt suit, short suit or trouser suit. All while respecting basic principles. The suit must be a two-piece garment, with a jacket for the top and a skirt or trouser (and its variants) for the bottom. Both pieces must be cut to the same size, material and color. The most famous tailors are those by Chanel and the Bar suit created by Dior, which have become part of our collective memory.

In the '80s and '90s, the suit was inspired by new styles and materials, sometimes in wool, tweed or jersey, long or short, supple or rigid, it adapted to new trends. But it is, and always will be, one of the most important pieces in a woman's wardrobe, just like a man's suit. Even if today it seems to represent a certain conformism and classicism, the suit remains a fashion masterpiece, a symbol of glamour, elegance and femininity. Every fashionable woman should have a suit in her wardrobe.